A simple felted 'scrap' scarf
Got a lot of ‘bits and pieces’ left in your fibre and yarn bags? I know I have – little ends of beloved accent yarns, scraps of fibre that I just couldn’t throw away when I moved…several times!
I love experimenting with ideas, and having seen what people did with fibre and soluble fabric, I wondered “Do you need the soluble fabric at all?” the answer is no – absolutely not!
You can use a simple method to fuse feltable fibre and yarns (as long as they are compatible) into a magnificent ‘scrap’ garment. I started off with scarves, but you can be sure I’ll be extending this in the near future! What about a scrap jacket, or a big throw? You'll only be limited by the size of your support fabric (see more about this below).
I love experimenting with ideas, and having seen what people did with fibre and soluble fabric, I wondered “Do you need the soluble fabric at all?” the answer is no – absolutely not!
You can use a simple method to fuse feltable fibre and yarns (as long as they are compatible) into a magnificent ‘scrap’ garment. I started off with scarves, but you can be sure I’ll be extending this in the near future! What about a scrap jacket, or a big throw? You'll only be limited by the size of your support fabric (see more about this below).
Match every mood! Three 'Scrap' scarves ready to jazz up your favourite outfit.
These scarves are so easy and fun to make! Ring the changes with sliver scraps, locks of fleece, bought and homespun yarns and even ravellings from fabric - anything that can be sandwiched securely between layers of wool. |
 Detail view of the demonstration scarf. |
Instructions
Materials:
Time: 1 to 1 1/2hrs – depending on layout time. Felting should take 20 minutes at the most.
- Fibre scraps (fine felting wool such as merino, silk, angora rabbit) which should incorporate at least 50% merino for feltability and comfort.
- Yarn scraps. I use any yarn that will attach itself to the felt. Yarns such as viscose and chenille can be used, but you will need to overstitch afterwards to secure them.
- A length of mosquito netting or similar for laying out your piece, long enough and wide enough to go over and under your work. This can be used over and over again as it is not part of the finished work.
- Lux flakes or detergent – whatever your preference.
Time: 1 to 1 1/2hrs – depending on layout time. Felting should take 20 minutes at the most.
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Process:
Remember to sample for fibre shrinkage and calculate your finished scarf length from that. Lay your piece of netting lengthwise on a long bench so that the edge of the netting hangs over edge of the bench about 15-20cm. This gives you an edge to fold over and create a neat margin on your piece. Split your merino fibre into manageable thicknesses. I split mine into either 6 or 8 thinner slivers, depending on the preparation. With the illustrated scarf I used a fibre I’ve been hoarding for over a decade – hand-dyed 70% fine merino, 30% silk. I accented it with a fine cashmere yarn, a heavy viscose/mohair ribbon yarn and a finely drawn sliver made from the same wool/silk fibre. Lay your split slivers out in a wave pattern, making sure that neighbouring slivers touch at reasonable intervals. The trick is to get them reasonably close together, but not too close, because when you full your workpiece the gaps will try to close up altogether! I like to extend the length of my scarves by adding long
‘dreads’ at the ends. These drape and
knot wonderfully. I also like to vary the lengths of these to add interest.
Once you have laid out your ‘waves’, drape your accent yarns over to form a random net. Anchor the yarns in the sliver by parting the fibre and tucking them in. Add silk accents here if wanted. I didn’t do that with this scarf because I wanted the subtle shine of the silk element of the sliver to be the accent.
If you're using high viscose content yarns or anything that's slippery, lay a fine cobweb of sliver over the yarn here and there where it lies on top of the first layer. This will help keep your yarn in place. You can fold the top part of the netting over the piece and carefully flip it to decorate the other side at this point, if you wish. When you have finished the accents, fold the 15-20 cm edge of the net up over the piece, then fold the other edge over the top to enclose the whole piece. At this point, the end fringe may hang out over the ends – don’t worry about this right now. Turn the whole piece 90 degrees, fold both the fringe ends over, as in the photo, and roll the whole piece up like a jam roll. Roll it up firmly, but not so as to put tight wrinkles in the net.
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 Materials: Silk/wool roving, cashmere yarn, silk/wool sliver and mosquito netting support tool.  Sliver laid out with the accent elements on surface.  Fringe hangs over the bench end beyond the edge of the netting support.  A heavy viscose/mohair yarn was added - it's a bit slippery and tends to move during felting. The end is tucked securely into the fibre.  Both sides of the net are tucked around the piece enclosing the long edges.  Fringe edges folded up onto top of covered piece.  Finishing the roll, with the second edge of the fringe tucked over. Note the small overlap of net at the end of the roll.  The fully rolled scarf ready for wetting. For the wetting process, see the sample slideshow. |
Wetting Out Instructions
Make up your preferred felting solution and pour it over the ‘jam roll’, gently working it into the whole piece. At this point you may want to unroll the piece and re-roll it to make it a bit tighter.
Keeping the piece wet (but not soggy), start to massage the piece with your hands, rolling it backwards and forwards, squeezing gently. Unroll and re-roll from each end several times.
Work on the ‘dreads’ once the piece is beginning to integrate. They need to be damp rather than wet, and then you can simply roll them between your hands like playdough or roll them backwards and forwards on a damp block of plastic foam (this is quite hard on the hands, though). Once they are formed into dreads just fold them back up into the piece as before and continue to work on the piece.
When the fibre starts to come through the net, lift the net off the piece and then replace it. Inspect the piece for folds and unwanted adhesions.
When the work has attained the soft felt stage, you can begin to get progressively more mean with it. Keep unrolling and re-rolling it in the cover, and check to make sure that you don’t get any unwanted parts sticking to each other. If you find the edges rolling up, or gaps closing, gently pull them apart again.
With the piece still in the cover, start dropping it onto a washboard, into the sink, or onto a bench ( a textured surface seems to work faster). Start gently at first, then increase the pressure until you are throwing it quite vigorously (note: you WILL get splashes!). Keep opening the package and checking for unwanted adhesions.
Make up your preferred felting solution and pour it over the ‘jam roll’, gently working it into the whole piece. At this point you may want to unroll the piece and re-roll it to make it a bit tighter.
Keeping the piece wet (but not soggy), start to massage the piece with your hands, rolling it backwards and forwards, squeezing gently. Unroll and re-roll from each end several times.
Work on the ‘dreads’ once the piece is beginning to integrate. They need to be damp rather than wet, and then you can simply roll them between your hands like playdough or roll them backwards and forwards on a damp block of plastic foam (this is quite hard on the hands, though). Once they are formed into dreads just fold them back up into the piece as before and continue to work on the piece.
When the fibre starts to come through the net, lift the net off the piece and then replace it. Inspect the piece for folds and unwanted adhesions.
When the work has attained the soft felt stage, you can begin to get progressively more mean with it. Keep unrolling and re-rolling it in the cover, and check to make sure that you don’t get any unwanted parts sticking to each other. If you find the edges rolling up, or gaps closing, gently pull them apart again.
With the piece still in the cover, start dropping it onto a washboard, into the sink, or onto a bench ( a textured surface seems to work faster). Start gently at first, then increase the pressure until you are throwing it quite vigorously (note: you WILL get splashes!). Keep opening the package and checking for unwanted adhesions.
When the piece starts to firm up and full, you will be able
to discard the netting. Keep gathering the scarf up and throwing it. Make sure
you gather it up differently each time, to ensure that shrinkage is even. When the
fabric is firm and well-fulled, finish the scarf off by gathering it up in one
hand and flicking it against your washboard several times, varying where you
hold it and which part you flick. (I usually do this outside). Give it a hot
rinse, then a cold one to close up the fibres. Stretch out your scarf and
admire the result! Leave flat to dry and press for a neat and tidy finish, or leave 'au naturel'.